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04 Dec

Just a Little Bit Mobius

To really see a Jensen piece, one must touch it, explore it with the hands, to hold the piece, feel it's weight, run one's fingers across the curved surfaces. Our eyes are mesmerised by the surface, but our touch informs us of what is actually there.

This is especially true of the flowing motion of the Möbius inspired collection designed by Vivianna Torun-Bulow Hübe (1927-2004). By touching, by wearing Möbius you can feel the maker's hands, the weld, the sculpting, the making, and in doing so you are in touch also with the originator of the design.

Torun, as she was known, began designing for Georg Jensen in 1967, and was indeed already on her way to becoming the most celebrated female silversmith of the post-war period. She was brought in to make a difference and her designs re-invigorated the company and helped define it as something sleek, modern and cool. Her jewellery was something one wanted to wear, her enormously successful Vivianna bangle watch was in fact the company's first watch and she herself was someone that people wanted to know. Beautiful, fearless, sexy, playful, she herself was an admirer of great art and artistry and expressed an artistic freedom.

The simple, enigmatic Möbius collection was designed by Torun in 1968, comprising brooch, earrings, rings, pendant and ever popular bangle. This autumn Jensen re-introduced her Möbius drop earrings, originally designed by her in 1998. Elegant spirals of silver that catch light and embody all the essentials of Vivianna's life and design. We have all the examples of this beautiful collection which continues to inspire and enchant observers and wearers alike.

This year is the centenary of her birth and Georg Jensen has chosen to celebrate her 50 years of artistic collaboration with the company. Original Torun designs now mingle with new variations, younger designers being invited to riff on established themes like jazz musicians. Considering Torun moved a lot in Jazz circles, styling Billie Holliday in her Dew Drop collection, we think she would approve of the analogy.

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